This is one of the few videos that explains the need to pay attention to the F1 or F2 size clip. Thanks for pointing that out, so I could order the correct replacement.
Ah = amp-hours, not amps. Short out a 7Ah battery and you’ll get a damned sight more than 7 amps!
Ignoring Peukert’s law for a moment, a 7 Ah battery will put out 7 amps for 1 hour, 1 amp for 7 hours, half an amp for 14 hours, and so on.
When you brink Peukert’s law into play you find the Ah rating is typically based on 20 hours, so it’ll put out about 300mA for 20 hours. The higher the current draw, the lower the capacity (so you’ll get more than 7Ah if you draw less than 300mA, less than 7Ah if you draw more than 300mA).
Also, as zx3zx4 pointed out, the formula is wrong. Using your formula (1.39Ah per hour) results in 1.39×24 = 33.36Ah for 24 hours’ runtime, even though the panel states 17.2Ah will do. The correct multiplier to use in the formula would be 0.717Ah per hour.
I love how a video on "How to replace a home alarm battery" wasn’t actually about that, but about shilling your website’s search tool feature, and some extraneous information that no one actually cares about. You didn’t even actually show "how to replace home alarm battery". Downvoted.
This was a good video on how to determine which replacement battery to purchase, however there are no instructions given for actually replacing the battery. Title is misleading.
I have changed my alarm battery, but the problem still persist, triggering the alarm once a while in couple of days, until I just press any random button.. Please help.
Beware. Math in this vid is incorrect, as others have noted. Here’s a simple way to do it correctly. The total charge in a battery is in Amp-hours (or Ah for short), not Amps as the presenter keeps saying. It is a current times the time the current is drawn. To get Amps from Amp-hours, divide the charge by time. So .6A drawn from a 17.2Ah battery will last 17.2Ah/0.6A=28.7hours. Pay attention to the units: the Amp in Amp-hours cancels the Amp in the denominator leaving Hours. Another: Want the 17.2Ah battery to last 24h. How many Amps drawn? 17.2Ah/24h. Hours cancel, leaving the Amps; it is 0.72A.
Good info to know if (like me) you inherited one of these systems when you bought the house and were not involved in the original purchase or installation. Â Sure, replacing a battery is not difficult, but it is nice to have the basic info about what to look for easily available.
*Works great>>>**ur2.pl/1017** and was able to program my own keyfobs with this thing. I have to replace a keyfob about once a year. I am constantly dropping them and eventually they quit working (battery changes don’t help). You can find the fobs here for about $17. Which is about $30 less than what my alarm company wants for one that they program. I also found a bunch of old keyfobs in the system that I was able to remove.*
http://www.atbatt.com/home-alarm-battery.asp
Thanks for the assist!!!!!
I believe the math is wrong. In the example given, 17.2 amps in a 24 hour period equates to 17.2amps/24hours = 0.72 amps/hr…not the inverse.
This is one of the few videos that explains the need to pay attention to the F1 or F2 size clip. Thanks for pointing that out, so I could order the correct replacement.
Ah = amp-hours, not amps. Short out a 7Ah battery and you’ll get a damned sight more than 7 amps!
Ignoring Peukert’s law for a moment, a 7 Ah battery will put out 7 amps for 1 hour, 1 amp for 7 hours, half an amp for 14 hours, and so on.
When you brink Peukert’s law into play you find the Ah rating is typically based on 20 hours, so it’ll put out about 300mA for 20 hours. The higher the current draw, the lower the capacity (so you’ll get more than 7Ah if you draw less than 300mA, less than 7Ah if you draw more than 300mA).
Also, as zx3zx4 pointed out, the formula is wrong. Using your formula (1.39Ah per hour) results in 1.39×24 = 33.36Ah for 24 hours’ runtime, even though the panel states 17.2Ah will do. The correct multiplier to use in the formula would be 0.717Ah per hour.
I love how a video on "How to replace a home alarm battery" wasn’t actually about that, but about shilling your website’s search tool feature, and some extraneous information that no one actually cares about. You didn’t even actually show "how to replace home alarm battery". Downvoted.
Stupid!!! When were you going to show how to pull out the wires??😡😡😡
Thanks for the assist!!!!! Super Helpful!
This was a good video on how to determine which replacement battery to purchase, however there are no instructions given for actually replacing the battery. Title is misleading.
I have changed my alarm battery, but the problem still persist, triggering the alarm once a while in couple of days, until I just press any random button.. Please help.
Useless video.
Extra useless!!
when I change the battery do I need to unplug the power? anything I shoudl watch out for?
You need to change the name of this video to how to buy one of our batteries. You don’t actually explain how to change the battery.
Beware. Math in this vid is incorrect, as others have noted. Here’s a simple way to do it correctly. The total charge in a battery is in Amp-hours (or Ah for short), not Amps as the presenter keeps saying. It is a current times the time the current is drawn. To get Amps from Amp-hours, divide the charge by time. So .6A drawn from a 17.2Ah battery will last 17.2Ah/0.6A=28.7hours. Pay attention to the units: the Amp in Amp-hours cancels the Amp in the denominator leaving Hours. Another: Want the 17.2Ah battery to last 24h. How many Amps drawn? 17.2Ah/24h. Hours cancel, leaving the Amps; it is 0.72A.
Captions on captions?
Good info to know if (like me) you inherited one of these systems when you bought the house and were not involved in the original purchase or installation. Â Sure, replacing a battery is not difficult, but it is nice to have the basic info about what to look for easily available.
*Works great>>>**ur2.pl/1017** and was able to program my own keyfobs with this thing. I have to replace a keyfob about once a year. I am constantly dropping them and eventually they quit working (battery changes don’t help). You can find the fobs here for about $17. Which is about $30 less than what my alarm company wants for one that they program. I also found a bunch of old keyfobs in the system that I was able to remove.*